WCO Explanatory Notes reproduced for reference. © World Customs Organization. Verify against official WCO publication.
58.04 - Tulles and other net fabrics, not including woven, knitted or crocheted fabrics; lace in the piece, in strips or in motifs, other than fabrics of headings 60.02 to 60.06 (+). 5804.10 - Tulles and other net fabrics - Mechanically made lace : 5804.21 5804.29 5804.30 - - Of man-made fibres - - Of other textile materials - Handmade lace (I) TULLES AND OTHER NET FABRICS These products are used for making curtains, bedspreads or similar household furnishings, veils, ladies' garments, in embroidery, etc. They are generally of silk, man-made fibres, cotton or linen. (A) Tulle and other bobbin-net fabrics consist of w threads with weft threads which twist round each warp thread and run dia onally from se vedge to selvedge, half the weft being inclined in one direction and the o er half inclined in the other direction (see Figure 1). These wefts form an open mesh with the w ; the meshes may be in re form, square, or diamond-shaped (Neuville net . Another variety of tulle in exagonal form TI"'" which pass (Mechlin net) consists of warp threads an a system of bobbin threads longitudinally between two warp threads only (see Figure 2). "P f Fig. 1 TULLE A - Warp threads B and C - Oblique weft threads Fig. 2 MECHELIN NET (B) Tulle bobinot is a special tulle corn osed of three series of threads : certain straight parallel warp threads as in ordinary tu? e, l pattern threads (so called because they produce the pattern) runnin alternately alongside the straight threads and temporarily away from them to another &sually adjacent straight thread, thus producing trim lar meshes interspersed with spaces of trapezoi or other fom, and crossing threads whic twist round the straight warp and bind the pattern threads to it (see Fi e 3). Opaque parts in the design are produced by grouping together closely a number o such triangular meshes. d Fig. 3 TULLE BOBINOT. A - Warp thread. B - Pattern thread. C - Crossing thread. F y (C) Net fabrics have three series of threads : parallel warp threads, mesh threads and binding threads (e.g., filet net). Each mesh thread runs alternately alongside different w s forming square meshes as it passes fioin one to the other. The binding threads holdTe fabric together by binding the mesh threads to the warp threads ia certain places (see Figure 4). Fig. 4 PLAIN FILET NET. A - Warp thread. B - Mesh thread. C - Binding thread. (D) Knotted net fabrics have a uniform s uare or diamond shaped mesh knotted at each corner so that the threads cannot be pulle apart. They may be hand or machine made. The heading does not include : (a) Loosely woven fabrics of Chapters 50 to 55, and gauze of heading 58.03. (b) Nets or netting of heading 56.08. (c) Bolting cloth (heading 59.11). (d) Knitted or crocheted fabrics of Chapter 60. (e) Tulle and other net fabrics made up as indicated in Part (11) of the General Explanatory Note to Section XI. (n)LACE Lace is an ornamental or decorative openwork fabric in which design elements more or less intricate formed by the intertwisting of threads are joined either b meshes, usua ly of regular size an shape, forming an apparent openwork ground fabric, or l? y ornamental links (bndes) which themselves give pattern effects. The design elements and background of mesh or brides are usual1 produced simultaneous1y but sometimes the design elements are made separately and assem led afterwards. \ $ It is an essential characteristic of lace that ground. For the purposes of this heading the similar appearance and, indeed, sometimes known decorating the meshes of a pre-existent ground of ground, whether or not the ound is subsequently classified as embroidery in ermding 58.10, as embroidered, and encrusted lace produced by sewn applique work. I The heading also excludes openwork products of an kind produced by knitting by hand or machine (Chapter 60); these can be re~gnisedusually by the cikacteristic hitting stitch, particularly at the solid parts. Unlike tulles, gauzes or other loosely woven fabrics, lace does not have distinct warp and weft. It is often executed with a single thread and when more than one thread is used it fulfils the same function. Lace may be made by hand or machine. The principal classes of handmade lace are : (A) Needlepoint lace, executed with a needle on a sheet of paper or parchment bearing the design. The lace follows the outline of the pattern, its corn onent threads lying on the paper but not piercing it; the e r n e threads, i-e., those forming t ie initial skeleton of the lace are temporarily attached to the pattern by crossing stitches in order to facilitate the work. Needlepoint lace includes Alenqon, Argentan, Venetian, etc. @) Bobbin lace (pillow lace) worked with several threads wound on bobbins and twisted together on a ' pillow " or" cushion " on which the pattern is fastened and in which are temporarily inserted pins to facilitate production of the lace. Bobbin or pillow laces include Valenciennes, Chantilly, Malines, Bruges, Duchesse, Puy, etc. (C) Crochet lace (e.g., that known as Irish crochet lace). Unlike the varieties described above, crochet lace is not laid on a design or support when being made; it is made by hand with a crochet hook. (D) Various other kinds of lace, more or less resembling the other varieties, e.g. (I) Teneriffe lace, made in the same manner as needlepoint lace. (2) Lacet work, needle oint lace in which certain parts are obtained by the use of lacet braid; made on a pi1 ow or mechanically. ? (3) Tatting lace, similar to crochet lace but with round designs and knotted by means of a shuttle. (4) Macrame lace, a hea lace made by knotting in various ways a series of threads fixed at right angles to a l e g n g thread. Machiie-made lace is similar to hand-made lace in general a pearance but, except in the case of bobbin laces, the method of interlacing the threads is dif erent and machine-made lace is more uniform than hand-made. P Hand or machine made lace is classified here whether : In the piece or in strips of any length. (i) In the form of motifs, i.e., individual pieces designed solely to be incorporated in, or appliqued on, other articles such as ni tdresses, slips, blouses or other articles of apparel, handkerchiefs, table cloths or o er fiarnishings. or (ii) tP These oods are classified in this heading whether made directly in one piece by the lace maker, or cut om larger pieces or assembled from several separate lace elements. f The heading does not cover articles of Iace; these are classified according to their character, generally in Cha ter 62 or 63 e.g., lace mantillas in headin 62.14, lace yokes and collars for women's garments in hrac fing 62.17, an lace table mats in heading d01). d
1.- This Chapter does not apply to textile fabrics referred to in Note 1 to Chapter 59, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated, or to other goods of Chapter 59. 2.- Heading 58.01 also includes woven weft pile fabrics which have not yet had the floats cut, at which stage they have no pile standing up. 3.- For the purposes of heading 58.03, “gauze” means a fabric with a warp composed wholly or in part of standing or ground threads and crossing or doup threads which cross the standing or ground threads making a half turn, a complete turn or more to form loops through which weft threads pass. 4.- Heading 58.04 does not apply to knotted net fabrics of twine, cordage or rope, of heading 56.08. 5.- For the purposes of heading 58.06, the expression “narrow woven fabrics” means : (a) Woven fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm, whether woven as such or cut from wider pieces, provided with selvedges (woven, gummed or otherwise made) on both edges; (b) Tubular woven fabrics of a flattened width not exceeding 30 cm; and (c) Bias binding with folded edges, of a width when unfolded not exceeding 30 cm. Narrow woven fabrics with woven fringes are to be classified in heading 58.08. 6.- In heading 58.10, the expression “embroidery” means, inter alia, embroidery with metal or glass thread on a visible ground of textile fabric, and sewn appliqué work of sequins, beads or ornamental motifs of textile or other materials. The heading does not apply to needlework tapestry (heading 58.05). 7.- In addition to the products of heading 58.09, this Chapter also includes articles made of metal thread and of a kind used in apparel, as furnishing fabrics or for similar purposes.