WCO Explanatory Notes reproduced for reference. © World Customs Organization. Verify against official WCO publication.
58.10 Embroidery in the piece, in strips or in motifs (+). 5810.10 - Embroidery without visible ground - Other embroidery : 5810.91 - - Ofcotton 5810.92 - - Of man-made fibres 5810.99 - - Of other textile materials Embroidery is obtained by workin with embroidering threads on a pre-existing ground of tulle, net, velvet, ribbon, knitted or croc eted fabric, lace or woven fabric, or of felt or nonwovens, in order to roduce an ornamental effect on that ground. The embroidery threads are usually of textiles, ut the heading also includes those executed with other materials (for example, metal, glass or raffia). The ground fabric usually forms part of the completed embroide certain cases it is removed (e.g., chemically or b cutting) after being embroidered an only butthe in remains. Certain embroidery is not ma e with embroidery threads but with strips or f g F B E:E Thus the manufacture starting with a re-existing ground fabric distinguishes embroidery fiom lace, and lace should not be confuse with embroidery from which the ground fabric has been eliminated after execution. Neither should embroidery be confused with woven fabrics bearin desi s roduced by brochb threads durin the weavin process (plurnetis and other broch w o r g gatures dishnguishing embroidery om these oti?er products will be found later in this Explanatory Note. d f B Embroidery may be hand or machine made. Hand-made embroide is of com aratively small dimensions. Machine-made embroidery, on the other hand, is very o en in long engths. 7t f The embroidery classified here comprises mainly the following three groups : (I) EMBROIDERY WITHOUT VISIBLE GROUND This is embroide in which the ound fabric has been eliminated (e. ., by a chemical process, by cutting out). X u s the materia consists entirely of the embroidered esigns. F Since it has no background certain machine embroidery of this type might be confused with lace of heading 58.04 but can, however, be distinguished by talung into account the following points : (A) Whereas lace is made up of a single continuous thread or by the interlacing of two or more continuous threads with the same functions, and generally has the same appearance on both sides, machine embroidery of this kind comprises two threads with different functions; one, the embroidery thread, the other a shuttle thread underneath the fabric, the latter usually finer than the former. Thus the ri t and wrong sides of the embroidery appear different, f the wrong side is flat. the right side showing a certain re ~ ewhereas k" (B) The edges of cut out embroidery often show small ends of the ground fabric threads which have not been completely eliminated. (11) EMBROIDERY WITH THE GROUND RETAINED AFTER EMBROIDERING This is embroidery ii which the embroidering thread does not usually cover the whole of the ground fabric, but appears in the form of patterns on the surface or around its edges. The stitches used are varied and include running stitch, chain-stitch, back or lock-stitch, herring-bone stitch,point de oste, seed-stitch, loop-stitch, buttonhole stitch. As a rule the entire design can only be seen on g e right side of the fabric. Many varieties of embroidery have small holes or openwork produced b cutting, by boring the ground fabric with a stiletto or by withdrawing certain warp or we threads (or both) from the ound fabric and then finishing or embellishing the fabrics with embroidery stitches. This adds &htness to the embroide or may even constitute its principal attraction; examples are broderie anglaise and drawn threa work. I Materials which have been submitted only to the simple process of withdrawing the threads are excluded from this heading. In certain kinds of embroide the desired desip is first outlined or filled in with a padding thread to give the embroidere design greater relief. Some varieties of machine-made embroidery, in particular satin stitch embroidery and certain embroidered muslins, a pear ve similar to brochb muslins and other brochb fabrics (e.g., plurnetis) classified in hapters 0 to 55. They can be distinguished, however, by the following characteristics arising fiom their method of manufacture. In brochC fabrics, since the designs are produced by brochk threads introduced during the course of the weavin process, each item of a row of design is always between exact1 the same weft threads or exact the same warp threads of the ground fabric; m embroidered fa rics, on the contrary, the groun fabric is woven before the desi s are produced on the surface. In order to obtain these designs, the ground fabric is stretche on an embroidery machine, so the tension and position of the fabric cannot be sufficiently perfect for the needles of the machine to insert all the corres onding parts of the embroide exactly between the same weft or warp threads of the ound abric. Moreover, the needles o ten pierce the threads of the ground fabnc, which cannot appen in brochk fabrics. r i ? h E= F These distinguishin features of brochk fabrics and embroidered fabrics can be seen on fiaying up the edges of the esign. % (LU)APPLIQUE WORK This consists of a ground of textile fabric or felt on which are sewn, by embroidery or ordrnary stitches : (A) Beads, sequins or similar ornamental accessories; these accessories are generally made of glass, gelatin, metal or wood, and are sewn so as to produce a pattern or a scattered design on the ground fabric. (B) Ornamental motifs of textile or other materials. These motifs are usually a textile fabric (including lace), of a texture different from that of the ground fabric and cut in various patterns which are sewn to the ground fabric; in certain cases, the ground fabric is removed at the places covered by the applied motif. (C) Braid, chenille yarn or other trimmings, etc., in the form of a design on the ground fabric. All varieties of embroidery described remain within this heading when in the following forrns : (1) In the iece or in stri s of various widths. These pieces or strips may bear a series of P identica designs, whe er or not intended for subsequent separation to be made up into finished articles (e.g., strips of embroidered labels for markin articles of ap arel, or pieces embroidered at regular intervals intended to be cut up and ma e up into bibsf % (2) In the form of motifs, i.e., individual pieces of embroidered desi 'P other function than to be incorporated or appli ukd as elements of embroi ery in, for exam le, underwear or articles of apparel or h i s ings. They ma be cut to any shape, backe or otherwise assembled. They include badges, emblems, " $ashes ", initials, numbers, stars, national or sporting insignia, etc. % $ The heading does not cover : (a) Embroidery on non-textile materials (for example, leather, wickerwork, plastics, cardboard). @) Needle-worked tapestries (heading 58.05). (c) Sets consisting of woven fabric and yarn for making up into embroidered tablecloths or serviettes, or similar articles (heading 63.08). (d) Embroidery (other than motifs) made within the meaning of Part (11) of the General Explanatory Note b Sechon XI, whether or not in%e form of finished articles ready for use. Also individual articles of embroidery, complete1 fimshed, ready for use as such, which are embroidered directly in their final shape without an finder fabrication. This wide range of articles is classified as made up articles (e-g., Chapter 61, 63 or 65) and includes, for example, handkerchiefs, bibs, cuffs, collars, bodices, dresses, tray-cloths, table-centres, mantlepiece covers, table-mats and curtains. d, (e) Embroidery with glass thread without visible ground (heading 70.19).
Notes. 1.- This Chapter does not apply to textile fabrics referred to in Note 1 to Chapter 59, impregnated, coated, covered or laminated, or to other goods of Chapter 59. 2.- Heading 58.01 also includes woven weft pile fabrics which have not yet had the floats cut, at which stage they have no pile standing up. 3.- For the purposes of heading 58.03, “gauze” means a fabric with a warp composed wholly or in part of standing or ground threads and crossing or doup threads which cross the standing or ground threads making a half turn, a complete turn or more to form loops through which weft threads pass. 4.- Heading 58.04 does not apply to knotted net fabrics of twine, cordage or rope, of heading 56.08. 5.- For the purposes of heading 58.06, the expression “narrow woven fabrics” means : (a) Woven fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm, whether woven as such or cut from wider pieces, provided with selvedges (woven, gummed or otherwise made) on both edges; (b) Tubular woven fabrics of a flattened width not exceeding 30 cm; and (c) Bias binding with folded edges, of a width when unfolded not exceeding 30 cm. Narrow woven fabrics with woven fringes are to be classified in heading 58.08. 6.- In heading 58.10, the expression “embroidery” means, inter alia, embroidery with metal or glass thread on a visible ground of textile fabric, and sewn appliqué work of sequins, beads or ornamental motifs of textile or other materials. The heading does not apply to needlework tapestry (heading 58.05). 7.- In addition to the products of heading 58.09, this Chapter also includes articles made of metal thread and of a kind used in apparel, as furnishing fabrics or for similar purposes.